Monday, December 24, 2012

Birding The Gambia Part 5: Diurnal Raptors

If the number of raptors - generally being at or near the top of the food chain - is high then it can be considered a healthy sign as to the state of the eco system within which they fit. If this is the case then the Gambia is pretty healthy at the moment. We saw nearly thirty different species and we missed quite a few that you would hope to see during a dry season visit. We didn't manage to see a Bateleur  Terathopius ecaudatus which was a major disappointment for me as this was my main target species. Still - another reason to go back.
Red-necked Falcon Falco chicquera was fairly frequent although views of perched birds were often distant - such as this:
Red-necked Falcon Falco chicquera
 Whereas Western Banded Snake Eagle Circaetus cinerascens was a bit more approachable but not as frequent. We had to travel a fair way east before encountering any species of Snake Eagle but Beaudouin's Circaetus beaudouini, Brown C. cinerus and Western Banded C. cinerascens are all resident species and can be encountered in suitable habitat. Short-toed Snake Eagle C. gallicus is a palearctic visitor so the dry season is the best time to see this.
Western Banded Snake Eagle Circaetus cinerascens
We only saw the one Martial Eagle Polemaetus bellicosus, a fly over adult and the camera's auto focus could not latch on quick enough so I just managed this blurry shot:
Martial Eagle Polemaetus bellicosus
 We saw a good number of Palm-nut Vulture Gypohierax angolensis but again they were all quite distant or flying past a fast moving boat. This one was nesting at Abuko Nature Reserve but was miles away and this is the best I could manage. As well as palm nuts they do feed on small animals, fish, crabs, insects and birds.

Palm-nut Vulture Gypohierax angolensis
I think that Lizard Buzzard Kaupifalco monogrammicus was the most frequent small raptor. Buzzard is a bit of a misnomer as the bird is clearly a hawk - as is the Grasshopper Buzzard Butastur rufipennis. If you hear only one raptor calling in The Gambia I would bet on a Lizard Buzzard. We heard one nearly every day - wherever we were.
Lizard Buzzard Kaupifalco monogrammicus
 This is a shot of a Long-crested Eagle Lophaetus occipitalis that drifted over an area near the Bird Safari Bird Camp. You can just see a little of its distinctive long crest.
Long-crested Eagle Lophaetus occipitalis
We saw a couple of Grasshopper Buzzard Butastur rufipennis but I did not manage to get any decent shots. This was about the best:
Grasshopper Buzzard Butastur rufipennis
 Hooded Vulture  Necrosyrtes monachus everywhere and very common. I expected to wake in the morning and see a couple of these sitting at the end of the bed. Like all vultures they are not a pretty sight. If vultures are your thing Gambia is your place.
Hooded Vulture Necrosyrtes monachus
We saw three Dark-chanting Goshawk Melierax metabates and, fortunately, lots and lots of Fork-tailed Drongos  Dicrurus adsimilis  - so not to worry too much about this one:
Dark Chanting Goshawk Melierax metabates eying a Fork-tailed Drongo Dicrurus adsimilis for lunch
 Brown Snake Eagle Circaetus cinereus - just a couple but what a poser this one was:
Brown Snake Eagle Circaetus cinereus
Yellow-billed Kite Milvus migrans parasitus is a subspecies of Black Kite Milvus migrans and is, not surprisingly, distinguished by its all yellow bill and darker head. Both birds can be seen in large numbers, most everywhere and most anytime. After Hooded Vulture this was the most common raptor in the whole of The Gambia. They are really good at cleaning up the beach after a B. B. Q.

Yellow-billed Kite Milvus migrans parasitus
Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus is another palearctic visitor and this one was hanging around the hotel on the Atlantic coast. It was the only one we saw in The Gambia but we did see a lot of Grey Kestrel F. ardosiaceus although why I didn't photograph any I don't know.

Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus
We saw a couple of African Fish Eagle Haliaeetus vocifer and this one was nesting on the north bank of the river Gambia north of the Bird Safari Camp. Not a particularly decent picture but you can see what it is.
African Fish Eagle Haliaeetus vocifer
This African Goshawk Accipiter tachiro was in dense foliage in the Abuko Nature Reserve and hand-holding a 400mm lens in poor light is guaranteed to produce fuzzy shots like this:
African Goshawk Accipiter tachiro


 

Saturday, December 22, 2012

Birding The Gambia Part 4: Herons and Storks

 
I have lumped together all of the 'big' water birds. Herons, Bitterns, Night-herons, Egrets, Storks, Flamingos, Spoonbills, Ibises, Cormorants and the Hamerkop. Even in the dry season The Gambia is pretty wet. The river itself, its tributaries, loads of rice fields ditches and drains and some fairly extensive wetlands, especially on the north side of the river provide extensive habitat for these birds although that doesn't mean you will see them all let alone get decent photographs as these birds are notoriously flighty and unapproachable.
White-crested Tiger Heron Tigriornis leucolopha is nigh on impossible to find. There aren't many; it's nocturnal; it's secretive; it lives in dense Mangroves and it freezes when alarmed! We didn't see one.
Great Bittern Botaurus stellaris is a very rare Palearctic vagrant. I'm not even certain that it's on The Gambian list. We didn't see one.
Dwarf Bittern Ixobrychus sturmii is a wet season migrant so is unlikely to be found in December. We didn't find one.
Little Bittern Ixobrychus minutus is, apparently, fairly common but is quite shy and secretive and, of course, little. We didn't see one.
But we did see the other 14 species.
Storks first. Woolly-necked Stork Ciconia episcopus was probably the most common but I could never get close to any. All views were distant as was the only views of Yellow-billed Stork Mycteria ibis. Marabou Stork Leptoptilos crumenifer was a different matter as there is a well known breeding site which we visited. You have to be a friend of all things living to like the look of these! As the kids I used to teach would say 'Well ugly innit.'
 
Marabou Stork Leptoptilos crumenifer
We didn't see any other Storks but we did see both Greater and Lesser Flamingo on the River Gambia. The Greater Flamingo Phoenicopterus roseus was too far away to try for photographs - the river is really wide. But I did manage to get a shot of Lesser Flamingo Phoeniconaias minor flying away after the boat had disturbed their feeding. I didn't know that these birds often feed by swimming in deep water.
 
Lesser Flamingo Phoeniconaias minor
We saw both species of Pelican on The Gambian list but the Pink-backed Pelican Pelecanus rufescens being a widespread and common resident was far more frequent than the Great White Pelican Pelecanus onocrotalus which is more of an intra-African migrant. The coast and the mouth of the River Gambia are probably the best place to see these two species.
 
Pink-backed Pelican Pelecanus rufescens
Hamerkop Scopus umbretta is a surprisingly common bird and we saw these even in trees on sandy beaches and in all of the hotels in which we stayed. (Not in the hotels as such...but in the gardens!)

Hamerkop Scopus umbretta
Great Cormorants Phalacrocorax carbo lucidus (A sub-species known as White-breasted Cormorant) were found along the coast and Long-tailed Cormorants Phalacrocorax africanus were far more common and could be seen most everywhere especially in the evenings as they flew to roosts. The creeks and small tributaries of The Gambia River are ideal for African Darter Anhinga rufa and we saw hundreds whilst on the boats. The chestnut forehead and crown on this individual point to it being a female as males tend to have a black crown.
 
African Darter Anhinga rufa
 
We only saw one species of Ibis - the Hadada Ibis Bostrychia hagedash the other three species are all particularly scarce. In fact the Northern Bald Ibis Geronticus eremita is classed as a vagrant with only a handful of records from Senegal. I don't think it's been recorded in The Gambia - that would have been quite a find.
Both African and European Spoonbill were seen as we travelled up the river but again both were too far away to photograph. The red on the face and legs of the African Spoonbill Platalea alba was easy to see even at a fair distance making it easy to distinguish between the two species.
So back to the Herons. Western Reef Egret Egretta gularis is particularly common, especially the dark morph seen in this photograph. We encountered these wherever there was suitable habitat - wherever it was a bit damp!
 
Western Reef Egret Egretta gularis
Green-backed or Striated Heron Butorides striata is a common resident and we found these in most ditches and streams. This one was hanging around a filthy stinking creek that ran through the middle of the grounds of one of our hotels. It was surprising how many species of birds found this to their liking. It looked and smelled like an open sewer to me!
 
Green-backed (Striated) Heron Butorides striata
Squacco Heron Ardeola ralloides was common and we saw loads of these.
 
Squacco Heron  Ardeola ralloides
But we only saw a couple of Intermediate Egret Egretta intermedia. However, even a couple of these was, surprisingly, more than the numbers of Little Egret Egretta garzetta that we saw. Just the one all of the time we were there. I would have expected more of this, fairly common egret.
 
Intermediate Egret Egretta intermedia
 
Great Egret Egretta alba was more numerous than Little and Intermediate and were often seen along the banks of the river. I tried for an arty reflection shot in this photograph and as you can see I failed completely. It's a rubbish picture and I don't know why I've published it on this blog!
Great Egret Egretta alba
This is not a good picture either. It's a Goliath Heron Ardea goliath and it was about a million yards away when I photographed it flying along the bank of the river. It's not a certainty on a trip to The Gambia and it was the only one we saw so I thought that I would have to stick this picture into the blog. Look at its bill!
 
Goliath Heron Ardea goliath
Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis was just about everywhere. They are pretty tame and hang around in big groups feeding on lawns, dumps, hotel tables, restaurants, picnic hampers and almost out of your hand. I expected to find one each morning in my shower.
 
Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis
There were plenty of Grey Heron Ardea cinerea to photograph but I couldn't be bothered as there were so many new birds to keep me occupied such as Black-headed Heron Ardea melanocephala which was fairly common especially in the Abuko reserve. This is a resident heron and is easily found but the Purple Heron Ardea purpurea is more of a palearctic migrant although some are resident and is a little less common. We only saw a couple during our time in The Gambia
 
Black-headed Heron Ardea melanocephala
 The best bird in terms of rarity and difficulty to locate and then see well was the White-backed Night Heron Gorsachius leuconatus. We were on a small boat cruising the creeks near Tendaba when our guide found two of these skulking in the mangroves. These birds have massive eyes. Both birds were keeping fairly still on boughs of mangrove peering at us with these huge peepers. I was so mesmerised that I forgot to take any photos. But I did take pictures of it's close relative the Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax which is a lot more common and obvious.
Black-crowned Night Heron  Nycticorax nycticorax  (Adult)


Black-crowned Night Heron  Nycticorax nycticorax  (Juvenile)
 
Along the road which follows the north bank of the river there are a couple of well-known freshwater wetlands near kilometre marker number 58. They are famous for being fairly reliable sites for Egyptian Plover - a bird on most visiting birder's list. It was at one of these Egyptian Plover hunts that we saw our only Black Heron (or egret) Egretta ardesiaca of the trip. And here it is:
 

Black Heron Egretta ardesiaca

 
 But did we find any Egyptian Plovers?
 

Friday, December 21, 2012

Birding The Gambia Part 3: Kingfishers

 Missed a couple of these! Nine species on The Gambian list and we managed to see seven. We failed to see Shining Blue Kingfisher Alecdo quadribrachys but I was not surprised as it is only normally seen during the wet season (April - Sept) and is pretty uncommon then. The other one we missed was Striped Kingfisher Halcyon chelicuti - one that you should expect as it is fairly common in dry savannah bush and we spent a lot of scorching time in dry savannah bush believe me! Still you can't have it all.
Malachite Kingfisher Alcedo cristata was regular enough especially around the edges of rice fields and along the tributaries of the river. It's a common resident and should be guaranteed on any trip. Pretty much the same as Striped then!
Malachite Kingfisher  Alcedo cristata
Pied Kingfisher Ceryle rudis is a poser. They hang around on highly visible perches, hover next to your camera lens and fly around your boat. If you miss one its incessant high-pitched call will make sure that you connect. They like to be photographed and barely move when you try to stroke one. Feeding almost exclusively on fish they plunge dive - for fish.

Pied Kingfisher  Ceryle rudis
African Pygmy Kingfisher Ceyx pictus was the first species of kingfisher that we saw. One was using the fresh water plunge pool at the Footsteps Eco Lodge as a drinking pool or more probably it was taking insects from the surface of the water. Either way it was fast. Blue...splash...blue...gone. What?
African Pygmy Kingfisher  Ceyx pictus
Woodland Kingfisher Halcyon senegalensis or Senegal Kingfisher as it is sometimes known is most famous for being the bird on the bottle of the Gambian beer: JulBrew - the only beer that is available in The Gambia. Not a bad beer but a bit samey night after night. Still safer than the palm wine - in more ways than one if you see how it is gathered. This is a wet-season breeding visitor and they become quite uncommon during the dry season so it was not going to be an easy bird to see. This one was from a moving boat in the east Gambia and is not a great shot.

Woodland Kingfisher  Halcyon senegalensis
This Blue-breasted Kingfisher Halcyon malimbica was also taken from a moving boat - but it was moving slowly. This species tends to be the most common along the banks of The Gambia River as it is a specialist at exploiting the insects of the mangroves. A resident species and one that should be encountered on almost any birding trip to The Gambia.
Blue-breasted Kingfisher  Halcyon malimbica
 We only saw a couple of Giant Kingfisher Megaceryle maxima (apt scientific name!) and Abuko Nature Reserve near Bakau is as good a place as any to see this, the world's biggest kingfisher. And it is big - a massive bird that is more difficult to find in the dry season as it tends to be a wet season visitor. The other frequent kingfisher at Abuko is the Pygmy Kingfisher so you can see the biggest and one of the smallest together.

Giant Kingfisher  Megaceryle maxima
  This is a really bad picture of Grey-headed Kingfisher Halcyon leucocephala but it completes the set of  photographs of kingfishers seen. They were uncommon along the eastern section of The Gambia River and the boat was always whizzing along and more often than not I saw these birds as they were disappearing behind me. This species is a partial migrant - some move north into Senegal during the rainy season and then further south during the dry season. Not always expected to be encountered and very rarely providing a photo opportunity so I had to make do with this crummy shot!
Grey-headed Kingfisher  Halcyon leucocephala
 Herons next then!

Birding The Gambia Part 2: Bee-eaters

You need a bit of local knowledge and a lot of geographical nounce as well as an element of good luck to see all eight of the Bee-eater species on the Gambian list. Failing this a good guide who knows his birds will do the job. Although we managed to see all eight species there was not always the chance to take decent pictures.

Since publishing this post I have found my photos of Swallow-tailed Bee-eater Merops hirundineus and I have added one of the shots here for the sake of completeness.
Swallow-tailed Bee-eater  Merops hirundineus
The first species to be seen was the Little Bee-eater  Merops pusillus. First seen down near the Footsteps Eco Lodge as we walked back from the beach. This was to prove quite a common and widespread species. It is a resident in The Gambia and is likely to be seen in any open habitat, often in small groups.

Little Bee-eater  Merops pusillus

Little Bee-eater  Merops pusillus
We arranged our own flight from Birmingham to Banjul - six hours - and the birding, accommodation and travel were taken care of by the local travel company Hidden Gambia. It was one of their guides, Ebrima Njie, who took us to a couple of known sites for the more difficult species starting with Bansang Quarry on the south side of the river just east of Georgetown. Here is a breeding colony of Red-throated Bee-eaters Merops bulocki. It was stupidly hot and we were well away from any shade as we watched these fantastic birds zip around our heads. Another resident of The Gambia you can track these down at any time of the year if you know where to look.

Red-throated Bee-eater  Merops bulocki

Red-throated Bee-eater  Merops bulocki
Blue-cheeked Bee-eater Merops persicus was the most frequently encountered of the eight species but mostly in flight. We first saw these feeding over the Abuko Nature Reserve and later I managed a couple of pretty hopeless pictures of a couple of birds at Tanji Bird Reserve on the coast.
We saw quite large numbers of European Bee-eaters in flight whilst cruising east along the Gambia River but I never had a chance to take any photos. Both this species and the Blue-cheeked are Palearctic migrants and December is a good time to see large numbers of both as they over-winter here.

Blue-cheeked Bee-eater  Merops persicus



Blue-cheeked Bee-eater  Merops persicus
We had pretty good views of Swallow-tailed Bee-eater Merops hirundineus at Abuko and I definitely remember taking pictures of perched individuals...I think! But I'm buggered if I can find any anywhere. So no photos of Swallow-tailed unfortunately. This was perhaps the least frequent and the most overlooked of the Bee-eaters.(Have now found the photos and one heads this post)
Little Green Bee-eater Merops orientalis ,on the other hand, was a lot more regular and widespread and we often saw these hanging around the edges of rice fields from the western coast to the furthest point east that we travelled. This is a partial migrant which heads south during the dry season but many are also residents and stick it out all year. Another stunning Bee-eater!

 
Little Green Bee-eater  Merops orientalis
   We didn't see many White-throated Bee-eaters Merops albicollis but occasionally we saw some from the boats on the river and I managed to get a couple of dodgy shots from the boat at Tendaba one evening.

White-throated Bee-eater  Merops albicollis
 This species is different from the others in that it is an intra-African migrant. It breeds further north than The Gambia in Sahel and then moves south during the dry season. Another good reason to visit The Gambia in our winter.

White-throated Bee-eater  Merops albicollis
 Although all of the Bee-eaters are spectacular birds the most stunning, to my mind, is the Northern Carmine Bee-eater Merops nubicus and it was a case of saving the best until the last. Ebrima knew of a reliable site for these birds next to a school on the north bank road a mile or so west of Wasu Stone Circle. So it was grab a slice of history and culture at Wasu...OK fine, thanks let's go..and then off to look for Carmine Bee-eaters. What a bird!
Northern Carmine Bee-eater  Merops nubicus
  These birds disperse south during the dry season and consequently they can be difficult to find. We met birders who had failed to see these but this site is, apparently, pretty reliable before January.
Northern Carmine Bee-eater  Merops nubicus
I could have spent all day watching these birds and taking picture after picture but I had to move on to buy a Fanta!
There are shipping-containers full of bird guides in the Gambia and if you are planning a trip you will have no trouble acquiring one. I would recommend Ebrima and you can contact him prior to any planned visit at birdlifeafrica2002@yahoo.com. He will be pleased to arrange any itinerary for a birding trip. Visit http://www.hiddengambia.com/ for lots of info on The Gambia and a list of their itineraries and holidays.
Kingfishers next then!

 

Wednesday, December 19, 2012

Birding The Gambia. Pt 1: Rollers

There have been no posts for the past few weeks as we have been on a two week birding trip to The Gambia. The combination of some good birds, great people and winter sun made this the top contender for a December break. I planned to take a laptop and do a daily blog report but we flew with Thomas Cook and they have  extremely restrictive baggage allowances! Five kg of cabin baggage! My bins and camera weigh four and by the time I'd chucked in the passports and a guide book and wrapped them in a bag I'd used my 5kg. If you want to take a scope and tripod and a selection of lenses then, quite frankly, you're stuffed unless you trust that kind of equipment to the hold.
More of this later. Instead of a day by day blow I thought it might be more interesting to bunch most of the birds we saw into, as near as possible, family groups. So I'll start with the Rollers as they are both conspicuous and common.
There are five species of Roller on the Gambian list. We saw four quite easily - the one we failed to locate was the European Roller which is an uncommon to rare Palearctic migrant mainly from late August to June.
The pick of the other four to my mind was the Rufous-crowned Roller - Coracias naevius
Rufous-crowned Roller  Coracias naevius
This bird is fairly common in open woodland and we saw it near the coast, particularly in Brufot Woods as well as further south and east along the river. We only ever saw single birds and they were always perched atop some tree or high bush. Although fairly common it was the least frequent of the four species encountered.
Rufous-crowned Roller  Coracias naevius
The most common Roller was the Broad-billed Roller - Eurystomus glaucurus. Although not as widespread as the other three, numbers of these birds were high, especially along the river. They like to hawk insects particularly just before and during dusk and large numbers can be seen on the tops of tall riverside trees in the evenings. When they are hawking insects they look a lot like falcons.
Broad-billed Roller  Eurystomus glaucurus
 
They have pointed wings and a falcon-like flight, swift and direct, and their size and chunky-ness adds to the falcon impression. Too many times I thought I had a small raptor only to realise that I was watching a Broad-billed Roller...again!
 
Broad-billed Roller  Eurystomus glaucurus

 Abyssinian Roller - Coracias abyssinicus was the last of the four Rollers that we located but just like buses once we found one we found loads. The further east we travelled the more frequent these birds became. You are virtually assured of seeing these in any farmland, open woodland, gardens or savannah in The Gambia. They are spectacular and when they do the 'rolling' flight from which they get their name they are quite mesmerising. I was surprised at how confiding Abyssinian Rollers are. You can approach quite close and they are so conspicuous and regular in some areas that they would make a great subject for a photo essay.
 
 
Abyssinian Roller  Coracias abyssinicus



Abyssinian Roller  Coracias abyssinicus

We flew to Banjul and driving down to our accommodation in the south at Footsteps Eco Lodge (of which more later) the most frequent bird-on-a-wire was the Blue-bellied Roller - Coracias cyanogaster. Every third bird was one of these. (The other two were a permutation of any two doves on the Gambian list!) Like all Rollers this is a strikingly coloured bird and is an absolute belter when it flies.

Blue-bellied Roller  Coracias cyanogaster

Bird guides are frequent in The Gambia and the ones we used all know their stuff but you will not be needing a guide to find the four regular species of Roller on The Gambian list. You'll manage that perfectly well on your own.

Blue-bellied Roller  Coracias cyanogaster

 
 Finding all eight species of Bee-eater, however, is a different matter!